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The John Lobb brand is among the most renowned manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory remains committed to the craft techniques developed in the 19th century.
Modern machines are present but secondary. For example, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife striking the cutting table. With special blades, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is intentionally small, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from young French calf hides. Only 60% of each hide is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The collection combines iconic staples with modern updates. The classic City II model, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen shoes gained refined buckles and a reinforced sole. The Lopez model, introduced in the 1950s, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah shoes, which are released each season in different shades and textures.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains a defining name in world-class shoemaking.
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